Understanding Custom Fit Shoes

Shoe Customization is not as straightforward as it might first seem. We're talking about fit customization, not aesthetic or design customization.

We're talking about function, not form ;)

There are different features, designs and materials that might be customization options as well, but for now we're going to treat those as extras and focus on customization of how a shoe fits and how that process differs between shoe companies. 

There is a spectrum of more or less fit customization. The most custom fit is usually leather, hand made, and fit checked footwear while the least custom is: Pre-made sizes based only on width and length. 

At Prevolve we also take in BioMetric data like weight, foot strength, sport and position, to adapt certain designs and thicknesses within our cleats. So we're a special case ;)

The foot has so much complexity that there may not be a limit to how much customization a pair of shoes could actually receive. But we must live on planet Earth with time and resource constraints, so we can't customize into infinity.

Despite the range of differences, all fit customization shares the same reliance on a Shoe Last to provide the fit of the shoe, the internal volume in which your feet will reside. The Shoe is built around the Last shape. Usually the upper of the shoe is pressure and heat formed to take on the shape.

This shoe last is the source of the fit customization and it's importance cannot be understated. The fit and performance of any shoe has more to do with the Last than you might think. Ensuring that the shoe hugs your foot in the right places and has enough space in others is essential for creating a comfortable yet high performance fit. That's why at Prevolve we spent years refining our Last Design Algorithm (Read more here).

And yet, just because a shoe is custom fit, doesn't mean that the shape of the shoe encourages foot health. It is still common for companies to make custom shoes without considering the natural shape of feet and how your feet might need to change to become healthier.

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Real World Options:

What current real world custom shoe options are available to the public? 

The types of customization breakdown into three categories: Manual/traditional custom shoes, Algorithmic customization, and semi-standardized custom fit.

Custom Fit Handmade Shoes:

Let's start with the oldest form of customization - handcrafted leather shoes. This form has been around for thousands of years and it will require the hands of a craftsman and some traditional shoe making tools to pull off. Unfortunately this is a dying art form that is also quite expensive, usually costing $1,500 + for a custom pair and often months of wait time.

Often these shoe makers will make a cast of your feet or take individual measurements of each of your feet. They'll often make mock shoes or references in order to validate the fit. Two popular options are listed below:

1. Robert Mathews -Casual & Traditional Shoes ($1495+)
2. Crary Shoes - Casual & Traditional Shoes ($1,100 - $1800)

You might be able to find a local cobbler that offers similar custom fit shoes. Just google your local area for Custom Fit Leather shoes and see what you find.

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Pre-made Custom Fit

These companies have premade last designs to match to your feet. Using scanning or photogrammetry a basic 3D model of the feet are generated, once these measurements are found these companies will match your feet to the closest pre-made design they have on file. For those with feet close to the average size and width this can work, however, for anyone with feet farther outside the average shape this option might not be custom enough to create a comfortable fit. Here are some companies using this semi-custom approach:

1. Bauer - Hockey/Skate Shoes ($1300-$1800)
2. Imotana - Soccer Cleats ($190)
3. Zellerfeld - Fashion/Tech Shoes (~$200-$300)
4. FUSED Footwear - Fashion/Tech Shoes (~$100-$300)

Algorithmically Custom Fit Shoes. 

Many startups have attempted a crack at this market and subsequently failed over the past 10-20 years. Nowadays there are a handful of companies making a good go at this process.  

Although slightly less exact than the hand made option, relying on computers to do the heavy lifting of design and pattern making drastically reduces the time and cost needed to produce a pair of custom fit shoes.

Again not all companies in this category focus on minimalist principles in their shoe designs, so the shoes might be custom, but not necessarily healthy.

Conclusion

There are now more custom fit shoe options than ever for before. Yet, it's important you understand what level of customization you're getting and whether or not the company you're working with understands the natural form and biomechanics of the feet. Customization without this knowledge may still result in unnecessary foot pain and injuries. Additionally, wait times and and costs for custom fit are usually much higher than for an off the shelf pair of shoes. Hopefully this article helped you understand the options out there and what to expect in your search for the perfect pair of shoes ;)

Feel free to comment or email us @ info@prevolvefootwear.com if you have any questions  :)